Free at Last 9a+
First Ascent of Scotland’s hardest sport climb by Will Bosi.
Will Bosi has claimed the first ascent of the long-standing project at Dumbarton and has proposed the grade of 9a+ making it the hardest sport route in Scotland.
The route is bolted on an overhanging blank section of rock to the right of the crack on Requiem (E8 6c) which contains about 15 metres of sustained, technical climbing. Bosi had attempted the route a few times in the past but it was only this year that he has put serious effort into completing it and was able to clip the chains on the route after seven sessions.
Despite being bolted a long time ago, the route, known as Dumbarton Oaks (aka La Dumby-Dumby Project) had not received serious attention until 2014 when Dave Macleod and Alan Cassidy re-bolted it and put time into unlocking the sequence of moves.
Footage of Will’s ascent will be featured in an upcoming film by Band of Birds.
Photos by Jake Thompson for Band of Birds